When a toilet problem is an emergency
A bowl that is rising toward the rim, water pouring from the base or tank, or a cracked bowl that keeps leaking cannot wait until Monday. Water on a bathroom floor travels under vinyl and tile and into the ceiling below, so an after-hours leak is worth a night or weekend call.
If other drains gurgle or a tub backs up when you flush, the clog may be in the main line, not the toilet. Stop using every fixture and read our drain cleaning page, or call and describe what you see.
What to do while you wait
These steps take about five minutes and keep a bad toilet from becoming a bad floor.
Stop the water
Turn the oval handle on the supply line behind the toilet clockwise until it stops. If it spins loosely or will not close, shut off the main water valve.
Do not flush again
Each flush on a blocked line adds about 1.6 gallons or more to the bowl. Lift the tank lid and hold the flapper closed if the bowl is near the top.
Protect the floor
Lay towels around the base and set a bucket under any drip. Move rugs and anything electric away from the wet area.
Photograph the damage
Take photos of the water and any damaged flooring before you clean up. Your insurance agent may ask for them.
Note what happened
Tell us whether it leaks only when flushed, all the time, or only at the base. That one detail points us to the right part.
Why a quiet toilet leak costs more than it looks
The EPA's WaterSense program says the average household's leaks waste more than 9,300 gallons a year, and toilets are often the culprit, usually a worn flapper. The Indiana Office of Utility Consumer Counselor offers a simple test. Add a few drops of food coloring to the tank, wait 15 to 20 minutes without flushing, and color in the bowl means a leak.
You can also read your water meter before and after two hours with nothing running. If the numbers change, something is leaking. Your water bill names your utility, and an unusually high bill with no explanation is a good reason to test every toilet in the house.
Toilet Repair & Installation problem right now?
Call the 24/7 line. Tell us what you see, and we will tell you what to do first and what a visit involves.
Signs your toilet needs repair
Most toilet problems announce themselves. The sound, the timing and the location of the water narrow the cause.
Runs after you flush
A hiss or trickle that never fully stops usually means a worn flapper or a fill valve that does not shut off.
Refills on its own
The tank tops up every few minutes with nobody nearby. Water is slipping past the flapper into the bowl.
Water at the base
A wet ring around the bottom of the toilet points to a failed wax ring, a loose bowl or a cracked flange.
Rocks or wobbles
A toilet that shifts when you sit has loose closet bolts or a flange that sits low or is damaged.
Clogs again and again
If plunging only helps for a few weeks, the trap, the vent or the line beyond it may be the real problem.
Weak or slow flush
Mineral buildup in the rim jets or a partly blocked siphon hole starves the bowl of flush force.
Tank sweats or drips
Moisture on the tank outside is condensation. Water dripping from the tank bolts or the supply connection is a leak.
How we find the cause
We start with a dye test in the tank to see whether the flapper or flush valve seat is leaking. Then we check the fill valve height and the water level against the overflow tube, because a level set too high runs water down the tube all day.
For a base leak, we look at the wax ring, the closet bolts and the flange. Confirming a bad seal sometimes means lifting the toilet. For repeat clogs we use a closet auger first, and if that does not explain it, a drain camera shows what is in the line.
Common toilet problems and the usual fix
Many repairs are cheap parts. The table shows where the problem usually is and when it is more than a part.
| Problem | Usual cause | Usual fix | More than a part when |
|---|---|---|---|
| Running or refilling | Worn flapper, fill valve, bad seat | Replace flapper or fill valve | The seat is pitted or the tank is cracked |
| Leak at the base | Failed wax ring or loose bolts | Reset the toilet on a new seal | The flange is broken or the floor is soft |
| Rocking toilet | Loose bolts or uneven floor | Tighten, shim, reseat | The flange sits below the floor surface |
| Frequent clogs | Low-flow rim jets, trap, or line | Auger, clean jets, camera the line | Roots or damage sit in the drain |
| Cracked bowl or tank | Impact or old stress cracks | Replace the toilet | Always, a crack does not repair |
Repairing or installing a toilet
Repair and replacement are different jobs. A new flapper, fill valve or flush valve restores most toilets for much less than a new unit, and parts are standard. We replace a toilet instead when the bowl or tank is cracked, the porcelain is chipped near a seal, or the parts are no longer available.
Installing a toilet is more than setting it down. We shut off and drain the old one, pull it, and inspect the flange for cracks, rust and height. Then we set a new wax ring or seal, lower the bowl straight, snug the closet bolts evenly so the porcelain does not crack, and connect a new supply line.
Before you buy, we measure the rough-in, commonly 12 inches from the wall to the center of the flange, so the new toilet fits. We test every flush and check the base for seepage before we leave.
Choosing a new toilet, with the EPA WaterSense facts
The EPA says toilets account for nearly 30 percent of indoor water use. Old toilets can use as much as 6 gallons per flush. WaterSense labeled models use 1.28 gallons per flush or less, which is 20 percent less than the 1.6 gallon federal standard.
The EPA estimates that replacing old toilets can cut toilet water use 20 to 60 percent, nearly 13,000 gallons a year for an average family, and save more than $170 a year in water costs. Your own savings depend on how old the current toilet is and how many people use it. We do not promise a figure for your bill.
Running and leaking toilets
A running toilet is almost always one of three parts. The flapper no longer seals, the chain is too tight or too loose, or the fill valve does not shut off at the right level. EPA WaterSense says easily corrected leaks can save about 10 percent on a water bill. A flapper kit is a small repair, but you need to match the flush valve size, so bring the old part or call us.
What affects the price of toilet repair
A toilet job can be a part swap or a floor repair, and we price it after we know which.
Part or whole toilet
A flapper or fill valve is a small repair. A new toilet adds the fixture, the removal of the old one and the seal.
Flange condition
A cracked or low flange needs a repair ring or a new flange before the toilet can seal.
Floor damage
A leak that has softened subfloor or lifted tile adds work beyond the toilet.
Clog depth
A clog at the trap is quick. One that sits farther down the line needs a longer cable or a camera.
Time of the call
Nights, weekends and holidays are handled on our 24/7 line, and we tell you the price before we start.
Standard homeowner policies usually cover sudden and accidental water damage, such as a burst pipe, and usually do not cover gradual leaks, wear or the failed part itself. Check your policy and ask your agent.
Call us for a clear price on your toilet before work starts.
Call (317) 740-1302Doing it right in Zionsville
You can confirm any Indiana plumber's license in a minute with the state's online license verification, a free lookup on the Professional Licensing Agency's records. We are licensed and insured. Moving a toilet to a new spot is a bigger project, and permit rules vary, so ask the Zionsville Planning & Building Department.
We do not promise a specific arrival time. We will say honestly when a problem is a drain issue for our drain cleaning crew, a hidden leak that needs leak detection, or a bathroom remodel that fits plumbing installation. We serve Zionsville and nearby towns, and neighboring Whitestown.
Frequently asked questions
Yes. An overflowing bowl at midnight or a leaking base on a holiday weekend goes to our 24/7 line. Same-day appointments are available when the schedule allows. We promise no set arrival time, but we tell you what to shut off and photograph while you wait.
Add a few drops of food coloring to the tank, do not flush, and wait 15 to 20 minutes. Color in the bowl means the flapper is leaking. Flush right afterward so the dye does not stain.
The wax ring or seal between the bowl and the flange has usually failed, or the bolts are loose. Sometimes the flange itself is cracked or sits too low. Do not keep using the toilet, since leaking water soaks the subfloor.
A wax ring swap is within reach for a careful homeowner, but you must lift a heavy toilet and keep the new seal from shifting. A damaged flange or a rotted floor is a different job. If the toilet leaked for a while, call before you start.
The fill valve refills the tank after a flush and shuts off at a set water level. When it hisses, keeps running or fills slowly, it is worn. It is a small part, and replacing it often stops a running toilet.
Do not force it. Shut off the main water valve and call us. We can replace the supply valve and the line together so the toilet can be shut off next time.
Replacing a toilet in the same spot is different from moving plumbing. Permit rules vary, so ask the Zionsville Planning & Building Department before you start. A straight swap in the same spot is a different question from moving plumbing.
WaterSense labeled toilets use 1.28 gallons per flush or less, which the EPA says is 20 percent less than the 1.6 gallon standard. The EPA estimates savings above $170 a year when replacing an old toilet. Your savings depend on the old toilet and your household.